The picture shown above is an older model of electronic cigarette but the concept has basically stayed the same except many devices have a chip installed to better regulate the output of the high drain batteries used to power the newer style devices of today.
Let's say we have a Smok Alien 220w device with a TFV8 Baby Beast Tank and the tank is equipped with TFV8 Baby T8 coil. The models don't matter much but we will use this particular setup for our explanation. Remember that this diagnosis is generally done with every device we get.
Generally when a customer comes in with an error reading of "Ohms to Low" or "Atomizer Short" we start to diagnose the issue from the bottom up by first removing the batteries to place them on an external charger.
This will give us a chance to see if the batteries are in working order and it's a good place to start since these power the device. Start from the bottom up.
If you don't have an external charger then the reading on the device will have to do. If there isn't a screen and the device has an indicator light that blinks the normal operating light should come on when the device is fully assembled and has a charge. Usually blinking green for normal operation and red for error.
After the batterie(s) have been diagnosed and seem to be working fine we then move on the tank. The tank connects to the device in two different ways. One connection is the actual 510 connection which is the threading that holds the tank onto the device and the other connection is the pin or pad that is centered in both the 510 of the tank and the 510 of the mod or device used.
These must make a connection for there to be power transfer from the batteries to the mod to the tank. Now, we know that you cannot see inside where the connection is made so the next area of connectivity is the coil.
When we come to this step of diagnosis the only thing that is put together at this time is the batterie(s) that are inside the mod and the base part of the tank which is the bottom. Let's put the glass and top part of the tank to the side.
Now take the coil used for the device and place it in the base of the tank which is screwed on to the device that has the batterie(s) charged and installed.
Let's make sure that it is screwed in all the way but doesn't have to be wrenched down. Snug is good. The connectivity here is the base of the coil screwed down should contact a pin in the base of the tank that actually gets pushed down by the coil so it can connect to the 510 pin in the mod.
If this is a fresh new coil then we must prime the coil by applying whichever e-liquid we intend to vape once our device is fixed up. Once cotton is evenly soaked we can then turn the mod's power down very low just to see if the coils heat up.
This prevents burning cotton and it also gives the juice some warmth that will help it flow through the cotton soaking it in those hard to apply places. I usually blow on the coil to help keep it from overheating but mainly so I can see the small amount of vapor produced.
With all of these steps applied we should see vapor coming from the coil and then we can fit the tank with the glass and the top assembly so it can be filled for use.
If you still have issues with your device displaying the same reading then the only other option to try if you were diagnosing with an older coil is to buy a new coil and start fresh.
Remember that coils go bad. Some coils last longer than others and depending on the juice that you are using the time frame for usage goes up and down also.
The last thing we want to say is that if you are unsuccessful in attempting to fix this error is that we here at Fogwind are here to help in any way possible.
If you are reading this and can't get to a Fogwind Vapor Company location then take it up to your local shop or to another experienced vape enthusiast and see what ideas they may have.
Hopefully after reading this you are successful in working out this issue on your own. VAPE ON!